So I just realised that I’m going to be in Paris on Monday. Tomorrow! Or at least on my way there.
Paris!
I’ve never been there before. I know about the Eiffel Tower and Versailles and all that stuff, but those of you who’ve been to Paris—what would you recommend that’s not in all the tourist guides? And which of the famous touristy stuff is really really really worth a looksee?
We may not have a lot of time cause of the crazy schedule, but, c’mon, it’s Paris! One of the most famous cities in the world. We have to sneak out and do some cool stuff.
But what cool stuff?
What are your fave Paris restaurants, cafes, shops, whatevers? I needs to know.
Also what French phrases am I going to need other than “Je nais parle pas Francais”? (And, no, I have no idea how that’s meant to be spelled. Yes, my google is broken.)
Share all your Paris knowledge, people!
Thank you!
Berthillon ice cream on Ile St Louis, the best in the city. And that’s literally all I know. So lucky me that you asked the question, b/c I’ll be there myself in a week and am quite clueless.
Bon voyage!
Paris is not in Spain!
🙁
I have been to Paris once (and should remedy that situation quickly). While in Paris, I discovered that you should not attempt to bring a gigantic can of hair spray into the Louvre (especially if, upon entry search, you cannot explain what hairspray is, and have to pantomime like a fool). While in the Louvre, you might as well skip out on the Mona Lisa, as she is not all that and a bag of chips; also, when I was there, she was in a room hung with 5 or 6 Titians, and nobody was looking at the Titians at all. I liked the Louvre collection a lot — their Egyptology stuff is aces — but the people in the Louvre, not so much.
Also, and this turned out to be most important for me, Winged Victory at Samothrase is about as awesome as one might expect and/or hope. I spent a lot of time with her.
Other than that, I can report but little, except for the fact I don’t speak much French either, but did manage to get by. My sense is that people find awkward and shy attempts at French much more charming than non-attempts, or anyway I managed to have a whole conversation with an elderly Frenchman, in broken French, about how sad it is that Americans do not all learn French in school.
My favorite place to eat in Paris was the rather descriptively titled “Pain, Vin et Fromage,” in the 4th Arrondisement. It pretty much exclusively serves bread, wine and cheese (the bleu, blanc et rouge of French cuisine.
Now I want to go back…
Père-Lachaise Cemetery is a gorgeous place to wander and explore, especially in the spring with all the new green growth (look here for directions). it has the Great War memorials, and lots of neat people are buried there (gorgeous monuments!), including Oscar Wilde and Chopin.
I also recommend stopping randomly at patisseries for chocolate croissants and quiches to munch on while walking. most scrumptious.
Montmartre is a fun district to look about in, as well. ^_^
I ditto the ice cream on ile st louis. i think notre dame is a must as well.
I am in love with the pompidou center, so go there!
And also eat a crepe from a street vendor.
It’s been *counts* 17 years since I went to Paris, but I seem to recall most people speaking English once they spoke with me — even if I was speaking French. (Or attempting to, at any rate.) However, please (s’il vous plait) and thank you (merci) are always welcome. And I highly recommend stopping at any of the gazillion little crepe stands for breakfast, lunch, or a snack. Mmmmmm. (Note to self: need to make crepes again soon.)
I only had a few days there so my touristing was very basic, but I remember going out to Versailles, which was amazing in its freakish opulence. Also, I did a whirlwind run through the Louvre (AKA “The Greatest Hits Tour”) and would love to go back.
Have a great time!
second on the berthillon ice cream. if there’s a long line (and there was when we were there), head deeper into the “ile” and it’s sold in cafes around there.
splurge dinner recommendation: Maceo, near the Palais Royale (near the Louvre). fixed price menu choices with excellent vegetarian options.
web address: http://www.maceorestaurant.com/
we found excellent window shopping in the Marais (which holds the wonderful Picasso Museum and the Red Wheelbarrow — excellent English language bookstore) and the St. Germaine neighborhoods.
if you’re in the St. Germaine area, there’s a great chocalatier — jean-paul hévin — near the Luxembourg Gardens, and with this weather, it’d be great to pick up some sort of baguette and cheese lunch and take it to the gardens, watch the old guys play bocce, etc., then visit that chocolatier. (oops, i just remembered that you don’t like chocolate … but the Luxembourg Gardens lunch rec. stands).
also, we went up the Eiffel Tower this trip (my first time up after 5 trips to Paris). we went at dusk and it was very beautiful, then waited at the bottom for the lights to come on. very touristy, but worth it, we thought.
i wish i could go to paris.. 🙁
I went to Paris for like 16 hours a few months ago, and I did as much as I could while there. 🙂 Definitely going to the Musee d’Orsay located near the Lourve because it is much smaller but has amazing artwork! Also get a crepe from a street vendor, or even some bread because it’s amazing.
I’ve been to Paris for a couple of days last fall (oh, sorry, autumn 😉 ) but all we had time to see was pretty much the Eiffel Tower and the Musée du Louvres. I didn’t even get to go to Versailles 🙁
So all I can say is try to go to the Eiffel Tower at a strategic time, because there is an incredible lot of people. Oh, and also, it’s spelled “Je ne parle pas français” 😀
(My first language is French. But I’m not from France. I’m from Canada.)
I was in Paris way back in ’04. It’s a fabulous city with something for everyone.
Touristy things I highly recommend:
Louvre (plan on spending a minimum of 8 hours there — if you’re into art!)
Notre Dame (go up to the very top of the bell tower for a glorious view! Cheaper than the Eiffel Tower, too.)
Less-Touristy things I highly recommend:
Opera Garnier (if you like ballet and really beautiful architecture)
Musee du Cluny (medieval art and the ‘Lady and the Unicorn’ tapestry!)
Pere Lachaise (this place has famous graves! From Marie Callas to Chopin to Jim Morrison)
Things to do anywhere in the city:
Take the Metro and just ride and ride and ride (there are so many ‘characters’)
Crepes from the street vendors (the Nutella one is second to none)
People watch (check out the fashionable women walking their dogs. They’re wearing HEELS and still manage to make it look elegant and easy)
French to know:
Aidez-moi! (Help me)
Combien est … (How much is …)
Oui / Non (yes / no)
S’il vous plait / merci / de rien (please / thanks / you’re welcome)
Pardon (Helpful on the Metro during the business rush)
Je suis Australienne (I’m an Aussie)
Je ne comprends pas (I don’t understand)
My best advice is to try to speak french. They’ll appreciate the effort and easily roll over into english for you. It’s a huge misconception when people say that they’re unfriendly. While I was there (12 days), they were some of the most polite and helpful people I’ve met. I hope you have a wonderful time!
Sunday Times travel section has a yummy article about the best places in Paris to get steak frites…Bon Voyage!
I spent a month in France a couple of years ago, arriving with about six nouns.
My most useful phrase?: Pardon, je suis un idiót.
(Sometimes “je suis une idiot americaine,” which was a) pretty obvious and b) not so useful for you.)
The sacre-coeur has two billion steps beneath it. At the bottom of those steps are…well, first some touristy shops, but further on cheap clothing stores that I love to go to. (and I always bring back awesome clothes and my friends go “where’d you buy that?! I want it” “France” “…grrrr”)
In Versailles, if you can go that far, there is a little restaurant called the Everest. I haven’t been there since I moved to Hawaii 8 years ago, but I still remember how delicious is was
louvre = yes. mona lisa = no. eiffel tower – yes. notre dame = yes. mcdonalds beside champs elysees = no. that should keep you busy.
Sainte-Chapelle is a must. I went on the recommendation of someone else (Charlie Gwynn – do you remember him from fencing?)and it was the highlight of my Paris experience. The downstairs part is lovely, but the stained glass upstairs just took my breath away.
There was a restaurant somewhere near Notre Dame called Quasimodo’s that had nice omlettes.
If you are going to the Louvre, be aware that you can pre-purchase tickets, though I can’t remember where from – one of the tourist outlets, or ticketek equivalents, or something, I guess – and this lets you just waltz past the long queues waiting to get in. (NB This was five years ago – things might have changed since then.)
Before making a trip to a museum, find out what day of the week it is closed. The Musee Rodin is supposed to be really nice, but I wouldn’t know as the day we went there, all we could do was look through the closed gate at a small piece of the garden.
The last time I was in Paris I was six years old, so I have little to no useful information. I do remember being fascinated by the elevator at the hotel where we were staying — it was one of the ones with a second set of metal gate-like doors. I am told that I stormed out of the L’Ouvre saying that I never wanted to see another painting again. I have since recanted.
The Musée des Arts et Métiers (Arts and Trades) is a fabulous collection of old sciencey inventions – automata, hands-on displays – if you like shiny brass mathematical things you’ll love it. It has it’s own Metro station which is done up in Jules Verne style. Very steampunk.
Also on the non-tourist route I recommend the Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation. It was built in rememberance of the 200,000 French citizens transported to Germany under the Nazi regime. The memorial is amazing. It’s on the very tip of the Ile de la Cité, behind Notre Dame. Almost invisible from the surface, very sobering, but won’t take much time to visit.
Hit the Les Halles Catacombs zombie girl.
When you go in a shop, say “Bonjour, Madame (or Monsieur)”. When you leave, say “Au-voir, merci.” This will demonstrate that you (unlike all those Rude Americans) are bien-elevee (well-brought-up), and you will be treated with kindness.
I concur with the Sainte-Chapelle recommendation. The stained glass is so amazing and there is so sum of it you wonder how they keep the roof up (big butresses on the outside). I found it when we were going to Notre Dame, saw a spire, drew a (wrong) conclusion and found Saint Chappelle instead of Notre Dame. Best mistake ever.
I really liked the Catacombs, if you like lots of creepy dead people piled up in underground tunnels. Very non-touristy and quiet and eerie, which was great.
Also, keep an eye out for these guys.
The Sainte-Chapelle is an absolute must-see. Go on a sunny day, if you can manage it, so the stained glass really sings. It’s like stepping inside a vast jewel.
The catacombs are cool, but you have to stoop a lot if you’re tall.
The Musee D’Armee is fantastic if you’re into military history – especially the Napoleonic era.
The Musee D’Orsay likewise for 19th century art.
And visit a classy patisserie – no one does cakes like a Paris patisserie – and a cheese shop. And for choosing a restaurant, I found that wandering the side streets, reading the posted menus of the little local places and trusting my instincts works well.
The essentials: LADUREE, DEYROLLE, ST. CHAPPELLE, COLETTE, THE UNICORN TAPESTRIES.
http://www.laduree.fr/
http://www.deyrolle.fr/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sainte-Chapelle
http://www.colette.fr
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/homes/home_id20393_u1l2.htm
The only french you need to know is “Merci” and “Sortie” (exit). Bon voyage!
i’ve been four times and the only time i had real fun was when i went to visit a friend who was living there. so a few suggestions:
1. call your parisian friends and make them take you around or else find some parisian friends, pronto.
2. skip the big museums and do shopping, people watching and gallery visits.
3. for galleries and food, trust your guidebook. do NOT get romantic and think you’re going to wander around and find little gems everywhere. you will wander around and find mediocrity everywhere.
4. trust your new parisian friends for shopping, and don’t be afraid to do zara–it’s better in paris!
Wow. Thanks everyone! Here’s hoping there’ll be time to do some of this.
Pardonez-moi, monsieur/madame, parlez-vous anglais, s’il vous plait?
(Excuse me, sir/madame, do you speak English, please?)
The Musee d’Orsay is one of the most beautiful museums in the world–the building alone is breathtaking, and the art in it is outrageously wonderful. The Rodin Museum is amazing–go on a lovely day, as most of it is outside. Monet’s Water Lilies are in the Musee d’Orangerie, and have magical properties. No, seriously. They cure my migraines instantaneously. They’re like nothing else. Notre Dame is absolutely worthwhile as well.
I happen to love the Alain Manoukian shops.
Though it is not particularly good by Parisian standards, I always stop at Cafe Deux Magots in order to have un petit cafe in honor of Simone de Beauvoir.
i absolutely concur with the musee de cluny suggestion.
and wander around the latin quarter nearby. markets, books!!! lovely.
my favourite thing in paris was just wandering around. oh and the patisseries. walk. eat yummy food. walk more so you feel less guilty about the yummy food. and just drink in all of that fabulous, fabulous history that those europeans take for granted!
not jealous. no. not at all.
def pere lachaise – also there is a flea marketbut i can’t remember where – you must buy a baguette and some cheese and pehaps a peach and go a’wandering and if someone asks you how you are say ‘je peut en feu’ which roughly translates to ‘I fart fire!’ -have a great time!
A word of caution: I heard the Rodin Museum, indeed beautiful, is currently being renovated. A friend recently visited and was disappointed. According to my guidebook the work is to be completed this year, but for now it may not be as desirable a stop as usual.
Whatever you do, make sure you get some time in at a patisserie (bakery). You can spend less than a Euro to get the most heavenly fruit tarts on the planet. I was in France for a month, and the goal as soon as we got to a new city was to find the patisserie so we could have our raspberry or strawberry tarts for second breakfast.
(And France may not officially have second breakfast, but I found that second breakfast could certainly be practiced there with ease.)
And if you get stuck in France on a holy day, it’s very hard to find a regular French restaurant for dinner… but Vietnamese places are always open. And they’ll serve you spring rolls by the dozen. Or at least, half-dozen.
and try rue mouffetard if you like to walk down a street with lots of open-air market shops.
also what cecil said… pompidou center has a great view from the top floor, and you can see the blank sides of buildings which have been painted in trompe l’oeil so as not to be boring and ugly.
I feel slightly guilty for not recommending the Segway tour of Paris, that starts under the Eiffel tower, in time. Its the best thing to do if you have one afternoon in Paris. And instead of just looking like a tourist gawking at Paris, the Parisians actually gawk at you, if you are on a Segway.
Man, this makes me want to go back to Paris so very much!
-you need to see the Opera House at least once in your life
-cross as many of the bridges as you can, on foot
-if you don’t want to be immediately pegged as a tourist, don’t wear running shoes (and do wear lipstick)
Everything everyone else said, plus hidden away where tourists can’t find it is a totally awesome anthropological museum. And if I had read your post earlier I would have made more suggestions, but it’s probabbly too late even for the museum :).